Aart Heering
Cin Cin Cinzano and the jet set world of Martini: in the 70s you could still stumble across the slick advertisements of the 2 most famous brands of vermouth in colorful glossy magazines. Since then, the once popular drink has become somewhat quiet, except as an ingredient in successful cocktails such as the Negroni and the Martini (half gin, half vermouth, not to be confused with the Martini brand).
But that will come to an end, says Roberto Bava, president of the Consorzio del Vermouth di Torino, which brings together 34 producers from Turin and the surrounding area. “We've lost the 1980s-2000s generation of consumers, but our booze is coming back. In our youth, the vermouth was still in grandma's cupboard, who often left it there for years, so that it became marsala-like sweet.'
'These days, better and more varied types of vermouth are mainly produced and consumed by young people. With that, the market has changed from an old product for an old audience into a new product for young people, unique in the marketing business,' argued Bava during a presentation of the consortium at the foreign press club in Rome, which was accompanied by a solid explanation and – of course – a tasting.
Vermouth or Vermut
Well, vermouth is a so-called fortified wine, an alcohol, sugar and spice fortified (almost always white) wine. This product was introduced at the end of the 18e century developed in Turin. However, according to some French connoisseurs, the origin must be sought in France: after all, the word is vermouth French, while Italian Vermouth much less used. (But that term in turn is borrowed from the German Wermut (wormwood), one of the main ingredients.)
Both are actually right, because vermouth originates from the then kingdom of Savoie, which was located in both present-day France and Italy. But the capital was Turin and it was there that the drink was first manufactured in a factory. Turin has therefore remained the capital of Italian vermouth and 'vermouth di Torino' must - on the basis of a European directive - really come from Turin. (This is in contrast to, for example, London Gin, which is really not always produced in London.)
Wormwood, sage, ginger and so on
Its composition follows rules established by Italian law. Vermouth consists of 65% wine, usually with a not too pronounced taste, such as trebbiano. In addition, sugar is added, whether or not caramelized: in the latter case, the so-called 'red vermouth' is created, which is therefore not made with red wine.
The name also depends on the amount of sugar. Extra dry contains less than 30 grams per litre; dry between 30 and 50 grams and sweet up to 130 grams. Vermouth must contain at least 15,5% alcohol and a maximum of 22%. This is achieved by adding pure alcohol in which a mixture of herbs, flowers, seeds, rhizomes and/or bark has been soaked for 15-20 days.
An obligatory fixed part of it is absinthe or wormwood (in Italian artemisia) that gives vermouth its typical bitter aftertaste. In addition, a mix of dozens of other herbs is used: hyssop, marjoram, melissa, thistle, thyme, sage, chamomile, hops, elderberry, saffron, cloves, star anise, fennel, coriander, nutmeg, vanilla, gentian, ginger, cinnamon, pomegranate bark, lichen, juniper, orange peel and so on.
You understand that the number of possible combinations is almost endless and that is also the reason why today's manufacturers experiment to their heart's content.
24 bottles of vermouth
It was therefore a wide variety that we were offered at the tasting: 24 different bottles from 21 manufacturers. Of course you can't try all of them in good decency, so we were offered a choice of 3 variants, increasing in sugar and alcohol content: extra secco, secco en Dolce, an interesting experience where you get a good view of the different (after) tastes.
Then we could make a choice from the many bottles on tap. In my case, there were 5 or 6 bases from as many brands, 2 of which I remember in particular: Sperone's Vermouth di Torino and Chazalettes', a rare red wine vermouth. Without falling into wine connoisseur jargon, I can safely say that the universe of vermouth is a lot wider than I ever expected.
The hour of the vermouth
Vermouth is usually not drunk alone, but served as an aperitif, with some food on the side. And not the silly salts or peanuts that you get served in Dutch cafes, but something that stands in the stomach.
She has been entrusted with that in Turin, the city of the aperitif par excellence! (When I was still young and poor and visited Turin a lot, I therefore gladly took advantage of the opportunity to stuff myself so full with an aperitif that dinner was no longer necessary.)
The Consortium has responded to that tradition by launching the 19ecentury vermouth aperitif with the initiative Extra Vermouth – L'ora del Vermouth di Torino, in which about thirty cafés and restaurants in Turin participate.
For a small fee you can choose 3 glasses of vermouth (or one glass and a cocktail), accompanied by a selection of products from the Piedmontese kitchen: cheeses and sausages, tomini, vitel tonne, bagna cauda, up to hazelnuts and gianduiotti.
The participating entrepreneurs must adhere to a few strict conditions: only natural products; store in the refrigerator, consume within a month of opening the bottle, serve at refrigerator temperature, not at room temperature.
Rising sales
Commercially, the vermouth is doing well, says Bava. The trend is rising and has not been significantly stopped by the corona pandemic, while internet sales have expanded the distribution network: "We now sell in 82 markets around the world, with the exception of the Muslim countries and Central Africa, but we have the largest sales still in Italy and the Anglo-Saxon world. We produce more than 4 million liters per year, good for about 6 million bottles of 10 to 30 euros, because you won't find good vermouth below 10 euros.'
The Consortium is working on further expansion (and therefore of course also visited the foreign press) and would like to see the custom of 'the hour of the vermouth' also adopted in Northern European countries. Don't blame them!
The true connoisseur
Finally, a user tip: If you are in the café, or rather the wine cellar, want to make a good impression, don't just order a glass of vermouth, but ask for a dry white vermouth di Torino, with one ice cube and a slice of orange. The bartender will look at you in awe and the regulars now know they are dealing with a connoisseur. If you also know the names of a few manufacturers, you can't go wrong!
You will find further information at Il Vermouth di Torino en Tourism Turin.
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