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Column: to Rome on foot – goal achieved!

For 4 months and 12 days I wondered what it would be like to enter Piazza del Popolo after that long journey. But you can't imagine it because it always goes differently than you could have imagined.

I left this morning just an hour and a half walk from Piazza del Popolo. Because the weather forecasts became more and more threatening, I decided yesterday morning not to stay in La Storta, which is officially the last overnight place of the Via Francigena, but to walk a little closer to the goal. I was afraid that I might otherwise have to walk through thunderstorms this morning.

So yesterday I had already traveled through the northern suburbs of Rome and decided to look for a hotel in front of the Ponte Milvio. I found hotel Farnesina, above my budget, but good: it was the last night.

With myself

I also went out for dinner to celebrate this last evening of my trip with myself. At 18 pm a message from friend Ben that the group of friends from the Netherlands had arrived safely in Rome.

I didn't sleep a wink last night. I sleep very badly and I think that's because my whole head is full of impressions and that brain continues to work at full capacity at night. Got up at 7 o'clock, showered, packed backpack and had breakfast in the hotel.

Agreed with Andrea that I would leave at half past eight. At that moment I got a text from friend Ben that they were already in Piazza del Popolo. They were still under the impression that I had left La Storta at 9 am this morning and I had urged them to be there on time. Because you can walk 6 kilometers in 15 hours.

on foot to rome 67

Do not Cry

I had not let them know that I was now more than an hour away from the final goal. It did not matter much for the arrival time. At half past eight I crossed the Ponte Milvio at my leisure and went up the Via Flaminia. Walking quietly and already much earlier than I expected, I saw the gate of the Piazza del Popolo looming. I messaged Andrea and Ben that I was coming.

And then there was the long-awaited moment when I walked under the gate with my sticks. And there I saw a whole welcome committee lined up, because they had been well instructed by Andrea for the photo opportunity. It's fantastic to see them all there.

I received flowers and a bottle of champagne from the News, Maud had me made a beautiful 'Inekewalks to Rome T-shirt', I was completely kissed and… I didn't cry for a change.

We immediately went to café Rosati, an illustrious café on the square, where I had to tell my story to almost the entire staff. I feel strange. Happy, excited but also tired. We had an extensive coffee there and tonight we will all go to the restaurant where I already had dinner last night, because few other good restaurants are open.

on foot to rome 68

Longing for my own bed

Rome has been abandoned by the Romans and taken over by the tourists and by us. It rained for a while but now the sun makes the wet streets sparkle. I was also very warmly welcomed at the hotel.

The receptionist took me to my room, especially for me a nice double room, but with a claustrophobic wall right in front of my window, I found it annoying but immediately asked for another room.

'How is it possible,' said the receptionist. 'Walked all the way over the great St. Bernhard Pass here and she doesn't dare sleep in a room with a wall in front of the window.' Still got another room, the last one before I'm back in my own bed.

on foot to rome 70

Mission accomplished

I have been in Rome for almost a week now. The friends have gone home and I am taking the train to Paris this afternoon and then the Thalys to Amsterdam. Tomorrow afternoon I will see the Bijlmer and Amsterdam-Zuidoost pass by again. That must be sobering after the backdrop of pine trees, piazzas, hills and churches to which I have become accustomed.

It will be a while before peace returns to my life. Yesterday afternoon, while I was crossing all of Trastevere looking for nice presents for the home front, Harrie suddenly called. "Are you calling for fun or did you want to ask me something?" I asked him.

He told me that he was besieged by people who wanted to know when I was back in the country and if they could see me anywhere. He then suggested that I come to De Jonge Haan on Saturday afternoon to greet people and tell them about my journey. I immediately thought it was a good idea, because how should I do that on my first working day, then I can hardly sit down all day and talk. So I'm curious and looking forward to Saturday afternoon.

The continuous weather with people, like last week, was very pleasant and also immediately very tiring. When they were gone, I didn't have to see anyone for 24 hours and I sat in bed reading some Dutch magazines.

Last night I went out for dinner with Andrea, in the Ghetto, which was very nice. That neighborhood is getting nicer, full of small squares and kosher restaurants. Rome is fantastic, but I also look forward to sitting in my postage-stamp-sized garden and only hearing the occasional child's voices or a passing car.

What has it done to you?

Of course I now get questions from everyone like: well, what did it do to you? How do you feel now ? I think I can only say something meaningful about that in the long run. I have so many impressions to process right now that I hardly sleep a wink at night. Where was I at this time last week? Yesterday I sent almost 30 cards to people I met along the way and all of them asked me: send a card when you get there.

All those faces and conversations were reviewed again. Oh yes, Yolanda from Cully, she gave me a rose in my room, Anais and Benoit from Saint Gorgon Main, I slept there. Annabella Polli, the 'religious madman'. Thierry and Marie Jeanne with whom I had such a nice lunch. I think it will take me a long time to let it all sink in. You gain so many different impressions during such a trip that if you consider at a certain moment where you were 3 days ago, it seems to have been 3 weeks already.

I have heard many stories, people tell a lot to strangers. You all have short encounters, but sometimes you have an intense contact with someone. What about the owner of a café in Switzerland, who had buried her husband just the day before. "I'll go on," she said bravely. "I'm not going to give up." And meanwhile, tears were streaming down her cheeks.

And so I have heard many dramatic stories. And all those people with their stories naturally influence the way you view life. It's one big lesson that you chew and ruminate until it's all processed. And maybe… I'll be a little wiser then.

I am a happy person

What I did have quite quickly during the trip was a huge reappraisal of my own life. I thought about my life and could only long for it. My fun and exciting job, my house, my family and friends. I am a happy person. I have resolved that I do not want any changes in my life for the time being, but rest, living a bit more consciously and enjoying everything more. Don't run like that anymore. I'm curious what will become of that.

Of course many people also ask whether the journey has brought me further in processing my grief about Cor. 'Have you been able to give it a place yet?' Although well-intentioned, I can no longer hear that expression. I am still very sad about Cor, but the most important thing is that I have found my inner peace again. I've really come a long way in that regard. The sadness remains, I will always miss him, but I am also obliged to make something beautiful of my life again. He would hate it if I went through life like a weeping willow for years to come. No, I'm going to make something of it again!

And finally: am I missing walking? Frankly not. I only miss the thrill you get when you arrive somewhere exhausted after 5, 6 hours and then find a nice hotel. Then there, sweating in a chair and drinking an ice cold beer, that was a euphoric moment every day. I'll have to come up with something about that now. 

END.

Ineke_walks_to_Rome
Ineke walks to Rome: the book

Did you enjoy these columns? Then the book 'Ineke walks to Rome' with all the experiences during her pilgrimage is really something for you. To browse for yourself and be inspired or to give as a gift. Or because you simply have a warm heart for Ineke's goal. The booklet is no longer available via bol.com, but can still be ordered directly from Ineke. It costs € 12,95 and the proceeds go to the Parkinson Fund. You can give Ineke a e-mail send if you want to buy it.

Written by Ineke Spoorenberg

Ineke Spoorenberg is a journalist. She worked for 21 years as an editor for the NOS Journaal, specializing in Italy. After the death of her partner, she went on a hike to Rome in 2010, and the following year a book about her journey was published, entitled: Ineke walks to Rome. In 2012, her career with the NOS came to an end. The following year she launched the website Met Ineke In Italy on which she writes about lesser-known but equally interesting places in Italy.

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