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From romantic harbors to the bones of Saint Nicholas: discover the Bari region in Apulia

Bari is waiting for you to discover it (photo: Josefina Di Battista/Unsplash, other photos: Sarah Monni)

While Apulia may have been a bit forgotten as a holiday destination in the past, the region is now on many hotspot lists. And rightly so in my opinion, because this area in Italy has already stolen my heart. I visited the Bari region, and would like to report on my experiences in the capital of the same name, and the charming nearby towns of Monopoli and Polignano al Mare.

Bari

I'll kick it off with Bari, the capital of Apulia. I flew directly from Schiphol, but you can also book a direct flight from Maastricht or from Weeze, just across the border at Nijmegen.

The old center of Bari is quite small much of the city was bombed during World War II but that certainly doesn't detract from the atmosphere. The city center is a dynamic mix of old and new. From castles to high-rise buildings and from authentic orecchiette to haute cuisine, Bari has it all.

Castello Normanno-Svevo

Colleague Martine already reported extensively of the harbour, the theaters and the pasta-kneading ladies in the streets of Bari Old. I agree that these are some of the main highlights of Bari.

I also have a few personal tips, such as Castello Normanno-Svevo. This castle is not to be missed, because it stands pontifically on one of the largest squares in the city, Piazza Federico II di Svevia. 

Tip! take a tour of the castle and discover its fascinating history. You can buy a ticket at the associated museum.

The old town of Bari (photo: Josh Chiodo/Unsplash)

You can also find a Dutch tradition in Bari. At least, a piece of history of the tradition: Sinterklaas.

The man with the miter and the long white beard whom we know as a childhood friend was in reality a Turkish bishop who helped the poor. After his death, his bones were transferred to Bari. During a trip through Italy, the saint himself seems to have indicated that he preferred this place as his final resting place.

You can admire the tomb of Saint Nicholas in the Basilica di San Nicola. There is also a statue of the bishop in front of the church. He does show a number of similarities with the Sinterklaas we know, but he is missing a miter on his head.

Sinterklaas, but where is the miter?

Monopoli

Monopoli is a charming port city, with typical Pugliese whitewashed buildings and a colorful fishing port. It is located about 40 kilometers from Bari and is easily accessible from the capital by train.

Monopoli is the ideal holiday destination if you want to enjoy the beach, culture and authentic food from Apulia. It has the lively atmosphere of a city, while at the same time embodying the classic Italian pronunciation dolce far niente: enjoy doing nothing. 

Monopoli is beautiful in every season, but during holidays and events the city has an extra special atmosphere. Like many other southern Italian places, Monopoli is decorated with fairytale light installations at these special moments.

I myself visited the coastal town in the summer, during Ferragosto. This meant that I was one of the chosen ones to enjoy the beautiful decorations!

Lights in Monopoli

I already mentioned that Monopoli is also very suitable for a beach holiday. You can find a few pleasant city beaches there, including one right next to the historic center: Cala Porto Vecchio.

However, I especially recommend Capitolo beach. This is a short distance away, so you will have to take the bus or drive a bit if you have a (rental) car. This is more than worth it, because in Capitolo you can relax on the extensive and wide sandy beaches. Plenty of room!

When in Apulia, don't miss the panzerotti. This typical southern Italian delicacy is especially popular in this region. A panzerotto is a fried dough snack, usually with a savory filling such as tomato and mozzarella. You can eat the tastiest food in Monopoli at Madià.

Madia

Via Orazio Comes 19

Opening hours:

Tuesday to Sunday from 12:00 - 15:00 and from 19:00 - 23:30

Closed on Mondays

Tip! my favorite was the 'Arrapato', with mozzarella, tomato, anchovies, turnip greens and chili pepper.

Enjoy the panzerotti

Another recommendation is restaurant MiCasa. Here you can eat fantastic seafood and other various snacks from the Apulian cuisine. Moreover, the location is incredibly beautiful, because you have a view of the sea from the city wall.

My house 

Largo Castello 17

Opening hours:

Vary by season

Polignano al Mare

Polignano al Mare you can know it as the setting for perfect beach pictures. The idyllic Lama Monachile beach is located between two rock walls, which makes it very photogenic.

In addition, the town has been voted 'friendliest tourist destination' in 2023. It is of course difficult to judge whether Polignano is really the friendliest place. However, I certainly agree that the people here are very welcoming.

Lama Monachile Bridge

Ponte Lama Monachile is the bridge that overlooks the famous beach. A tourist hotspot, but for a reason: this is the most photogenic place in the area. Definitely worth taking a picture and admiring the view.

Lama Monachile – in the summer it is very busy here (photo: Stéphan Valentin/Unsplash)

Polignano al Mare is known for its impressive rock walls. There are several caves in these rock walls, which you can visit by boat with an organized tour.

Would you rather travel yourself? You can rent a pedal boat or canoe at the beach. This way you can enjoy the view of the caves on your own. Please note that you are not allowed to enter the caves independently.

Nice appetite after all that sightseeing? Plenty of cozy restaurants in the area to recharge your batteries.

My personal favorite was Cru Fish Bar. As you can guess from the name, they mainly serve fish here. The layout of the plates seems to come straight from a star restaurant, but that does not apply to the prices. 

Cru Fish Bar

Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi 13

Opening hours: 

Friday to Wednesday from 12:00 - 22:30 

Closed on Thursday

More tips for Apulia

Are you not a big fan of very touristy places? In Apulia There are also plenty of undiscovered gems to find.

Written by Sarah Monni

Sarah was born and raised in the Netherlands, but Italian culture was introduced to her at an early age. She owes this to her Sardinian father, a man with a great passion for his (island) country. But also to her Dutch mother, who has seamlessly adopted the intricacies of Italian cuisine. In her youth, Sarah mainly visited Sardinia a lot, but nowadays she also travels to other regions of Italy to discover them. As a freelance writer, she would like to share her love for her second homeland with the readers of This Is Italy.

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