Jane Verdonk
Inland at the Golfo di Orosei (east coast) in the Supramonte Mountains lies the Gola di Gorropu. Gorrupu is Sardinian for 'cliff', 'gorge' or 'steep wall'. The gorge was created by the Fluminéddu, Sardinian for 'small river'.
This small river, often no more than a small stream in summer, has carved its way through the mountains over the centuries. The gorge is about 1,5 km long and 500 meters deep and at some points no wider than 4 to 5 meters.
The Gola di Gorropu is one of the deepest gorges in Europe and rivals the Tara gorge in Montenegro, the Gorges du Verdon in France or the Samaria gorge in Crete.
To visit the gorge there are several options to get to the entrance.
If you prefer not to hike, you can be taken by jeep to the entrance of the gorge. You can get more information about this at Campo Base di Gorrupu on the SS 125, km 191, where a small office is located. Various tours can be booked here, see also gorropu.info.
Hiking in the Gola di Gorropu
If you do want to walk, you can park your car at Casa Cantoniera di Ghenna Silana on the SS 125, km 183. After Cala Gonone it is about 18 km to the south. On the right is Casa Cantoniera and on the left Hotel Gorropu and Bar Silana.
The walk from here to the gorge is not long, more than 4 km, but the height difference to be bridged is almost 700 meters. The way back is therefore especially difficult. There is not much shade along the way, so it is advisable to leave early in the summer. Alternatively, you can return by jeep. At the beginning of the gorge is a sign with information about this.
A longer walk with much less difference in height and more shade is also possible, then you can park the car at the Località Sa Barva on the SS125 from Dorgali to Baunei. About 1 km after the exit towards Cala Gonone, turn right towards Gola Gorropu. Stay on this road and follow the signs 'Ponte Sa Barva'.
At Ponte Sa Barva there is a car park and a small bar with terrace. At the parking lot you walk down, cross the bridge and then to the left, the route is well signposted. From here it is 13 km to the entrance of the gorge, between 2 and 2 hours on foot. You more or less follow the river.
At the beginning of the gorge is an information point, here you pay € 5 (cash!) to visit the gorge and you get some explanation.
There are 3 routes, a green, yellow and red one. For the red route you need equipment and ropes and this route is for the real mountaineers. The other two routes are easy to do, provided you have good mobility and like to climb and clamber.
At difficult points there are ropes to hold on to. Furthermore, stones can sometimes be very slippery, so good shoes are recommended. After a visit you can cool off in the river on the other side of the gorge.
Gola di Gorropu and the legends
There are many stories about the Gola di Gorrupu. The oldest are about 'Sa mama de Gorropu (the mother of Gorrupu) and that is said to be a scary creature that lives in the gorge.
There are also said to be 'Sos drullios', a type of troll, evil creatures that emerge from the canyon during stormy nights and take people and animals that live in the area around the canyon.
Furthermore, the devil would live in the gorge, many have exchanged their souls for earthly riches, unfortunately that never ended well, most became so desperate that they committed suicide.
There are also many stories about the origin of the gorge. A legend tells that God decided to save the shepherds of Urzulei from the raids of the Orogolesi. With a bolt of lightning He divided the Supramonte Mountains in two. Between the two parts was now a fissure that neither man nor animal could cross.
Bread of acorns
The inhabitants of Urzulei were very poor. They made bread from acorns and chewed grass to satisfy hunger. In this area where it is said that even the rocks have a soul, the holm oaks grew from stones.
Birds probably hid acorns in the crevices of the limestone rocks, thanks to the precipitation these acorns could germinate and grow into oak trees. Bread was baked from the acorns, which were mixed with clay to soften the sour taste.
Each member of the community had to earn their own living, of course there was an exception for the children. The old ones, on the other hand, had a sad end, not being able to provide for their own bread they had to jump from the rock of Muccidorgiu, often helped by the younger ones.
This was not seen as barbaric, by the way, it would be even worse if your children starved to death. Some women took pity on the old ones and offered milk from their breasts to feed the old ones. Despite all this misery, the town of Urzulei still exists and people now live in prosperity.
nuraghi
The area around the gorge is deserted, but there are some nuraghi, which were built in the Bronze Age and served as a refuge, so it can be inferred that people lived here long ago. From the nuraghe Mereu you can see the gorge in the distance.
The gorge marks the natural boundary between the municipalities of Urzulei and Orgosolo. The gorge's features, as straight as if one had used a ruler, and the extraordinary biodiversity make it a special area. The river has eroded and smoothed the limestone rocks. The rocks contain a large number of fossils of shells, sea urchins and snails dating from the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods.
The canyon is characterized by strong air currents. Even birds sometimes crash into the rocks. There are parts with hardly any exposure to sunlight causing extreme temperature changes.
As a result, certain endemics (plant or animal species that only occur in one area) occur. Such as the Aquilegia nuragica or Aquilegia di Gorrupu, a plant with blue-green flowers (blooms in May) that is threatened with extinction.
You will also find the holm oak, holly, mastic, rosemary, saffron, different types of orchids and the Sardinian currant, which is also threatened with extinction.
Animals that live here are the mouflon, marten, wild boar, wild cat, fox and the rare golden eagle. Sardinian trout can be found in the clear water.
In short, the Gola di Gorrupu is highly recommended!
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