Steve Smulders
The Oltrepò Pavese is located in the province of Pavia, in the southwest of Lombardy, under Milan. The Oltrepò Pavese is virtually unknown in the Netherlands and Belgium. Except for that single lost wine lover. That's a shame, because this beautiful area has a lot to offer the interested tourist. The Oltrepò is – as the name suggests – oltre il po, across the Po River.
Everyone knows it, if only from the Po plain that you drive through when you travel via Switzerland to Italy. The provincial name Pavia forms the second part of the name. In this article I'll give you 7 good reasons to come and discover the Oltrepò Pavese for yourself this season!
Table of contents
1. Peace, space and relax
'Every time I come home, park the car and get out, the silence overtakes me. Gone is the rustle of the tires, the hum of the engine, the whoosh of the wind. Silence, total silence. Even after all the years that we have lived here among the vineyards, it remains a miracle and literally a breath of fresh air: instinctively you immediately take a deep breath. Fresh air flows into your lungs, tension flows out of your limbs. Peace. The world seems to have come to a standstill.'
I wrote that in part 2 of More Italian States, my stories about Italy. And you can experience that here too! Or as a German guest of ours once exclaimed:Diese Quiet! Das gibt es bei uns maar nicht mehr!' Come, enjoy and relax and let the stress slip away. You don't have to do anything for it, it happens automatically!
2. Panoramic Views
The Oltrepò Pavese is an area with vast vineyards en rolling hills. While walking, cycling or touring by car, you will be presented with the most beautiful views. It is not for nothing that this area is also called the Tuscany of Northern Italy!
In the south you can have fun historical places such as Zavattarello with the medieval castle and Varzi with the medieval city center. The Penice Pass (1.200 m) is a well-known meeting point for motorcyclists and pilgrims/hikers en route to Bobbio, the final resting place of San Columbano.
3. The real Italian kitchen
Italy is known for its fantastic cuisine. The Italians themselves are often convinced that their cuisine is the best in the world and it must be said: the food here is always very tasty because people are not yet used to tourists. You will be served dishes here that a true Italian likes, and this gourmet has high standards!
None tourist menu or ugly photos of unappetizing looking dishes. If you don't speak Italian, let the host or hostess of these restaurants guide you: everything will be fine. And we don't have to worry much about the price: in an average restaurant in the Oltrepò, the price is at Dutch cafe level.
On Sundays there is an extensive lunch and that Pranzo della domenica therefore takes hours. It is the primary Sunday family activity and meeting place in which all generations participate. It is really a must to do that once! There is no shortage of choice: there are hundreds Inns, osterie, pizzerias en farmhouse restaurants can be found in the Oltrepò.
4. Oltrepò Pavese: the largest wine region of Lombardy
Italy is also pre-eminently a country of famous and excellent wines and in recent years the prose co from Franciacorta (also Lombardy) very popular all over the world as an aperitif. But did you know that the Best sparkling wine sparkling wine from all over Italy is produced in the Oltrepò Pavese? At least that is the conclusion of the Michelin of Italian wine, the Red shrimp in his overview of 2015!
The Oltrepò Pavese is best known as the largest Italian producer Pinot Noir (Burgundy, Blauburgunder). Its location around the 45th parallel makes the area ideal for this grape.
Although wine has traditionally been mainly produced in the Oltrepò for the Milanese market (sometimes collected from the winegrower himself per carboy!), in recent years more and more producers are focusing on making real quality wine. So there are now dozens of nice, smaller ones cellar's each with their own top product.
Many of these wineries are also located on historical sites such as castles and monasteries. Well worth a visit for several reasons! Wine tasting is possible here almost everywhere 'at home' at the cellar yourself, without complicated hassle and without payment. Hospitality and love for their own product come first!
5. The Silent Monastery of the Blind Monk
In a beautiful wooded and meditative environment it is in the hills monastery of San Alberto di Butrio with 15e century frescoes and relics. A very special place that you should not miss when visiting the Oltrepò. The complex consists of three churches built together, the first of which is said to have been founded by the Malaspina family to thank God for healing their son from muteness.
You can also admire the very simple room of the blind Brother Ave Maria, who lived here until his death in 1964. His bed is strewn with notes from devout visitors on which they have written pleas for sick loved ones.
6. Free walking (and cycling) between the vineyards
All vineyards in the Oltrepò are free to traverse. Fences are only placed around one's own house. No one is surprised when a hiker strolls among his grapes: people greet friendly and like to chat. This means you can literally walk to and from everywhere: Santa Maria della Versa, Lirio and beyond. Along the way you can enjoy the beautiful views and the silence and rest at a bar or with lunch on a terrace. La Dolce Vita at its best!
7. Lounge in the historic university town of Pavia
Pavia is a nice and quiet historic town with a good mix of sights and shops. It has one of the oldest universities in Italy and Europe with a beautiful historic complex of buildings right in the center. There are also many (medieval) churches that are worth a visit and there are several museums in the castle of the city.
Over the Ticino River is the special covered bridge. Everything is within walking distance and there are many opportunities to rest on a bench in one of the many quiet squares of the city. And after an afternoon of strolling and shopping you can grab a terrace on the pleasantly busy Victory Square of this historic town. An appetizer with tasty snacks on the table and people watch!
Have you ever been in the Beyond Pavese been?
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