Merel Diemont
Red buildings, medieval towers, porticoes, students and coffee bars. Thousands of coffee bars. Those are the sights of the northern Italian city of Bologna in a nutshell. And behind all the buildings, towers, porticos and bars are stories and secrets. The secrets of Bologna in the region Emilio Romagna bring the city to life and reflect a vibrant and quirky city that lives up to its nicknames 'la Rossa', 'la Dotta' and 'la Grassa'. In this blog article in the series 'the most beautiful places in Italy' I introduce you to the 10 most beautiful places in Bologna.
I lived in Bologna for a year. During this period I have, among other things, the travel guide Hiking in Bologna written. I regularly encountered surprises – such as Napoleon's old villa, where refugees now live – and thanks to friends I came to places that would otherwise have remained hidden. Wandering through the narrow alleys and under the porticos is the best way to get to know Bologna. But if you don't want to wait for that, you can already dream away at the ten most beautiful places.
1. City of a Hundred Towers
A discovery tour of Bologna starts from above. Medieval towers have determined the streets of Bologna for centuries. If you think Manhattan's skyscrapers are unique, forget it. In the early Middle Ages, Bologna's skyline was already dotted with towers. 120 to be exact. The construction of the towers had everything to do with increasing lack of space in the center and a growing need for protection. But above all, the towers were a status symbol: the higher the tower, the richer the family.
Today only 24 towers remain, of which the 'Due Torri' are the best known. The leaning Garisenda tower and even more leaning Asinelli tower stand at the heart of the city and have been the symbol of Bologna for centuries. But the other towers also contribute to Bologna's fourth nickname: la Turrita (the Towered), such as the tower of the Cattedrale Metropolitana di San Pietro. You can climb this tower every Saturday afternoon and from the seventy meters high top it seems that you can almost touch the hills of the Apennines.
What is striking during the climb is that the tower of the cathedral – the seat of the diocese of Bologna – has largely no steps. This allowed donkeys (!) to eat, drink and carry stones up. The largest bell in the tower weighs 3.300 kilograms and the various clocks together weigh 6.500 kilograms. This clock tower is therefore also the strongest tower in the city. Halfway through the climb you will come across the huge clock and understand why the tower has to be so strong. From above you look down on Piazza Maggiore, the next – figurative – highlight of Bologna.
2. The Palazzo Comunale with the Collezzioni Comunali d'Arte . museum
Piazza Maggiore is the heart of the city. The buildings in this historic square are among the oldest in the city. From the facade of the Palazzo Comunale, Pope Gregory XIII looks down on the square below. He guards the entrance to the town hall, which has housed the town council since 1336 and one of the most beautiful museums in the city. And where transparency in Italian politics is sometimes hard to find, the Palazzo Comunale is always and freely accessible to everyone. You walk right in there. Wandering through the beautiful rooms, every visitor sooner or later arrives at the top floor: at the Collezzioni Comunali d'Arte museum.
In the Middle Ages, these rooms were the winter apartments of the cardinals' emissaries, but since 1936 the paintings, statues and coats of arms of the city government and various private owners have been exhibited here. The Sala Urbana is the jewel of the museum. This hall was built in 1630 by cardinal and art lover Bernardino Spada who named the hall after Pope Urban VIII. The 188 coats of arms of the Pope's envoys make the hall one of the most impressive and special in Bologna.
3. The Porticoes
The porticos of Bologna: they protect against winter showers, the bright summer sun and are silent witnesses of seven hundred years of history. Almost all medieval colonnades have the characteristic red color, But who better looks, discovers a range of differences. And who good looks, sees that no portico is the same.
Measuring more than 38 kilometers in length, the covered colonnades of the northern Italian city have defined the streetscape for centuries. And not only that: since the first porticos were built in the thirteenth century, a large part of public life has taken place under the high columns. Markets, concerts, protests, appointments and chance encounters: under the porticos an intimate atmosphere prevails and they form a welcome separation between the chaotic Italian traffic and the pedestrian domain.
Walking through the historic center, the beautifully decorated ceiling of the portico of the Palazzo della Banca catches the eye. Down a side street off Via Saragozza, the narrowest portico seems to hide in Via Senzanome. Via Saragozza ends at the 666 arches that lead to the sanctuary of San Luca – on a hill outside the city. Like a red snake, this longest portico in the world meanders through the green hills. Walking under the porticos we regularly come across university buildings: after all, Bologna is the oldest university city in Europe.
4. Bologna and its University
Bologna is known as a city of towers and as a culinary paradise, but of course also because of its university. Students have been 'fed with knowledge' (Alma Mater) here since 1088, as the university's motto goes. Without the university, Bologna would not have grown into the dynamic, vibrant and progressive city it is today. The historic center of the city is dotted with faculties and (historical) university museums. The Archiginassio, Palazzo Poggi and of course Via Zamboni are the most striking and together tell the story of 'la Dotta' (the Scholar).
A journey of discovery through the history of the university begins at the Archiginassio. Behind Piazza Maggiore is a square building with a central courtyard, surrounded by a portico with impressive coats of arms and painted and decorated ceilings. This is the place from which the university was governed from 1561. It remained this way until 1802, when Napoleon Bonaparte moved the heart of the university to Palazzo Poggi.
Palazzo Poggi is located in the middle of today's student district: Via Zamboni with adjacent streets full of bars and small bookshops, where the quirky, slightly alternative students dominate the streetscape. This is where today's Bolognese student life takes place. Everything about medieval student life – and the history of warfare and, for example, the work of midwives – can be found in Palazzo Poggi. Finish a visit to the multiple museums that Palazzo Poggi houses at one of the many terraces in Via Zamboni. Or immerse yourself in the Bolognese student life and find a place among the seated and reclining students in Piazza Verdi. It is rarely quiet in Via Zamboni, so we look for one of Bologna's parks.
The street scene of the Via Zamboni
5. Parco Villa Ghigi
As can be seen from the towers in the historic center, Bologna owes its nickname 'la Rossa' partly to the red color of the buildings and roofs. However, the green side of Bologna is much less known. Apart from a few small parks, there are few trees to be discovered in the center. But the hills on the south side more than make up for this. The southwestern Apennines form a beautiful backdrop for hiking and cycling tours (climbing!). In addition, there are several large parks in this area that – despite the fact that the inhabitants of Bologna also like to come here – are usually very quiet.
One of those parks is Parco Villa Ghigi: named after the old villa of the wealthy lawyer Callisto Ghigi who bought the villa in 1874. This too is certainly one of the most beautiful places in Bologna. The park is located just outside the center and slopes upwards along the foothills of the Apennines. It is dotted with narrow footpaths, green meadows and fruit trees. From the higher part you also have a great view over the red roofs of the city below you. The inhabitants of Bologna like to come here for a picnic or for a walk with their dog. On weekends and holidays it can be busy in the park, but in general it is quite quiet here.
There is also plenty to discover here for history buffs: Napoleon's old villa and the Eremo di Ronzano monastery look down on the park from their high hill. It is a bit of a climb, but both historic buildings are in good condition and closely linked to the Bolognese history and therefore definitely worth a visit. Walking makes you hungry, so we quickly descend back to the center in search of the local dishes.
6. The Quadrilatero
In the heart of the city – a stone's throw from Piazza Maggiore – is the Quadrilatero. This quarter (shaped like a square) has been the economic center of Bologna since the Middle Ages. For centuries, the narrow streets have been the domain of craftsmen, butchers, jewelers, fishmongers, hairdressers, bakers and goldsmiths. Although the Quadrilatero was renovated at the beginning of the 20th century, the shops and workshops take you back to medieval Bologna, where market traders sell their wares, bakers sell fresh bread and goldsmiths light their fires.
Market vendors have been selling their wares in 'holes in the wall' for centuries
The streets are a melting pot of smells, colors and sounds and the whole leads to a unique neighborhood where most of the shops have been run by the same families for generations. They rule the roost in this medieval comedycommercial center, which is surprisingly authentic and well-maintained. It can be crowded in the streets, but wandering through the alleys you will come across special places, such as the oldest pub in Bologna in the Kikkersteeg.
In Tavern of the Sun look out your eyes: The paintings, drawings and black-and-white photos are hung randomly and skewedly on the yellowed walls. The wooden tables and knick-knacks behind the bar are reminiscent of an antiques market. Yet this pub – built in 1465 – is the favorite of the Bolognese. Rightly so. Here you will find what the Italians believe is really all about life: good wine and good company.
Not only locals love this pub: Osteria del Sole has been voted the undisputed number one of Bolognese nightlife on Tripadvisor. Not nothing, given the huge range of bars in the student city. Yet the osteria is anything but a tourist attraction. There is no service. You can order a glass of beer or bottle of wine – the choice is limited – at the bar in the corner. Music is also missing: the loud buzz of jokes and good conversations fills the room. The long tables are often all occupied, but chairs are always made available for visitors: everyone has been welcome here for five hundred years. So is the nearby Piazza Santo Stefano…
7. Piazza Santa Stefano and the Sette Chiese
The most beautiful square in Bologna: residents and visitors alike agree. Piazza Santo Stefano is smaller than Piazza Maggiore, but more intimate and quiet. The porticoes of the funnel-shaped square were built at different times and in different phases, depending on the noble families who built their palazzos on the square. The cobblestones don't run very well, but the inhabitants of Bologna like to sit on them (even in winter). There are always students sitting in front of the church chatting or drinking a beer. In the weekends, many parents with young children come to take their first steps or make the square unsafe with their football and bicycles.
On the narrow side of the square you'll find one of the tastiest gelaterias in town: Cremeria Sette Chiese. The vendors are typically Italian and hardly speak English. But the ice cream makes up for everything, especially the taste Lemon; (lemon) is fresh and sweet at the same time and melts on your tongue. Sitting under the porticos of Piazza Santo Stefano, the world passes by, but at the same time seems to stand still for a moment. Enjoy the Italian way.
On the square you stand in front of the most special church in Bologna: the Basilica di Santo Stefano. The basilica consists of seven different churches that are connected to each other. Hence the church's nickname: Sette Chiese (Seven Churches). Opinions differ about the year of construction of the church, but it seems that the oldest parts of the church date back to the 5th century. A visit to the Basilica di Santo Stefano feels like a journey through time. The first church leads to a second round church that opens into a courtyard. Walking around under porticos you will find other courtyards and places of remembrance.
Dante Alighieri – who studied at the Bolognese University in the 13th century – was also impressed by the religious complex: It is said that the Florentine poet spent so much time in the Sette Chiese that some elements from the church – such as the reliefs in the Benedictine monastery – were a source of inspiration for his famous poem Inferno. The Basilica di Santo Stefano is inextricably linked to the city. But that also applies to the water. In search of 'the source' of Bologna's economic success in the Middle Ages…
8. The Canals of Bologna
The combination 'Bologna and its canals' often raises eyebrows. It is one of the city's best kept secrets: the water, which gave Bologna its economic prosperity in the 13th century. At the time, Bologna was the fifth largest city in Europe and the most important Italian city in terms of textile and silk production. The industrial activities of the Bolognese – especially the mills that produced silk – required an enormous amount of water. The inhabitants therefore developed an ingenious network of canals that ran through the entire city.
Many canals have been filled in over the centuries, but others are 'covered' and still run under the city. That is why a small canal suddenly appears in some places in the historic center, such as the Canale delle Moline in Via Piella. There were many water and grain mills here in the Middle Ages. On the left side of this street is a hidden window. When you open that, you have a beautiful view reminiscent of Venice. Because of the window, this view becomes la finestrella (finestrella means little window), but the nickname of this secret of Bologna is Little Venice. Canale delle Moline is a photogenic canal and the window is often photographed.
Many more references to this golden age of water can be found in and around the center, such as street names and the old Port (nowadays a park and event area). With the Water Tour – bookable through the Tourist Office – it is possible to descend to the canals that run under the city. The entrance is under a shutter at the church of San Martino. In the meantime dusk has fallen and we slowly walk to one of the tastiest eateries in the city.
9. Drogheria della Rossa
Bologna is not called 'the belly of Italy' for nothing. The city is full of trattorias, osterias and coffee bars. If you're hungry, it's best to follow your nose. Then you will probably soon come across a place where it smells really nice. Hidden under the porticos is Drogheria della Rosa. Owner Emanuele walks around at a rapid pace and instructs – or rather commands – his employees. With the result: this – somewhat messy-looking – restaurant is known as one of the best in the city.
Emanuele finds a menu unnecessary. He prefers to invest in the quality of his dishes. At the end of the evening he often joins his guests at the table with a bottle of wine. He chats away in rapid Italian. 'The ingredients, the ingredients' he shouts with wild arm gestures when asked about the secret of his tagliatelle al ragù.
Of course there are many other beautiful places in Bologna where you can eat delicious. However, you will not find Spaghetti Bolognese there. Bologna is all about tagliatelle with ragu: pasta ribbons with a creamy sauce. The official recipe is kept in a safe at the Chamber of Commerce in the Palazzo della Mercanzia. That's how seriously the Bolognese take their most famous dish. Besides tagliatelle al ragù you will also find here tortellini in bread, cutting boards (shelves) full of slices of ham and pieces of cheese, mortadella and large glasses spritzer. Of course everything is fresh and prepared with care and love. The Bolognese love their own cuisine and are happy to tell you about it. So be sure to have a chat with the cook or owner. The desserts are definitely recommended here, but it is of course also nice to enjoy the evening for a while and walk through the center with a gelato.
10. Looking for the best ice cream
The Dutch talk about football and the weather. Although Bolognese also talk very passionately about football, the favorite topic of conversation is probably food. They can spend hours discussing the best pastries and olive oil like only Italians can. The question of where the best ice cream is sold can also lead to heated discussions, which are conducted with arm gestures, raised voices and penetrating looks. Italy at its best.
That is why it is advisable to visit various ice cream shops to make your own judgment. The search for the best ice cream starts at Cremeria Funivia. cableway means funicular, although it is nowhere to be seen. As she deftly scoops ice cream into trays and cones, employee Sylvia explains why. The first branch was opened seven years earlier at the foot of the hill with the round church of San Luca. In the past, churchgoers and visitors could go here with a cable car. Sylvia winks: 'Holy or not, everyone wants an ice cream while waiting, of course'. The funicular has since disappeared, but the success of Cremeria Funivia has not. This led to this large new location with its spacious layout and white interior.
A few blocks away is Via Castiglione. Halfway up this street is the ice cream parlor that has presented itself as a 'sorbetteria' for twenty years. The spacious terrace is therefore very suitable for enjoying a sorbet, if you have patience: it is always busy in Sorbetteria Castiglione. Italians love this place and the employees try to help everyone as best they can by working with receipts. Of course there are many more good ice cream shops in Bologna. Bolognese also love their ice cream themselves. That's what makes eating ice cream in Bologna so much fun: sitting on a curb – surrounded by Italians who enjoy an ice cream just as much as you do – you not only enjoy the ice cream, but also everything and everyone around you.
They were. The ten most beautiful places in Bologna. But there are so many more beautiful places in this amazing city that I hope you discover it for yourself.
The most beautiful places in Bologna on video
A day in Bologna means good food, history, students and many surprises. look at the videos below to relive this day.
A day in Bologna
Bologna, where every day is special
Fancy a city trip to Bologna?
We can imagine that you now feel like a city trip to Bologna. You must! Bologna has a lot to offer. Good food, beautiful buildings, a unique atmosphere. Bologna also has many great places to stay for a few days.
These are the best and cheapest accommodations in Bologna.
Tips for your Bologna toppers?
Do you know any beautiful places and sights in Bologna that should not have been missing from this list? Then leave a comment below!
Also watch: the most beautiful places in Italy.
Photo Bologna above: Pixabay, other photos: Merel Diemont
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