Martin van Groenigen
Day 2 of the Cinque Terre in 5 days. We wake up in Riomaggiore and enjoy our first cappuccino and cannoli. During breakfast we do research on the beaches of the Cinque Terre. This soon turns out to be a bit of a tricky issue. They don't know real sandy beaches, except in Monterosso al Mare. We have a winner!
How do we get there?
From Riomaggiore take the Cinque Terre Express to Monterosso al Mare. This is the furthest village seen from Rio. You are therefore 'quite long' in the train, fifteen minutes, and pay 8 euros per person for a return ticket. You can also take the boat, then you will lose about 18 to 22 euros for a return ticket. You will then have the most beautiful views of the various villages, but you will also be on the road twice as long.
What are we doing there?
Monterosso is the largest of all five villages, the least photogenic, and is sometimes even referred to as a town. Because, compared to the other four, there are also cars driving here and there. Garbage trucks, taxis. Yes, everything looks smaller than it really is. Even the Fiat 500s.
Monterosso is divided into two parts. At least it seems so. Immediately when you get out of the station, you walk onto a Cannes-a-like boulevard with many terraces and even more people than in the other four villages. It is an impressive sight, especially with the sun shining in the sea. We have not been to 'the city' ourselves, but you can stretch out on one of the, yes, sandy beaches. Pay attention because you can't put your derrière in the sand everywhere. Many stretches of beach have been claimed by hotels or restaurants, so you have to rent a bed there first.
The prices differ enormously. From 5 euros for an hour to 5 euros for a day. There are also stretches of 'free' beach, but it's hard to find and they are very busy. You can sit nicely if you go left from the station and walk to the old town. Around the bend, it is self-evident, you have the harbour. Here, although not on the sand, you can sit comfortably and watch the local fishermen getting ready for a trip out to sea.
What do we recommend?
Eat bruschetta at the restaurant right in front of the station. On the coast, the Italian coast. They come in all shapes and sizes. With pesto, with garlic and tomatoes, with pork fat (yes, this is a thing) and they are delicious. Especially after a day of sun and sea.
Furthermore: stroll along the boulevard. Where Riomaggiore is touristy, Monterosso is even more so. You look your eyes out! Levanto is also nice. From Monterosso you can take the boat around the corner towards Levanto.
Much quieter than the Cinque Terre, but just as fun! From there you can also do a day trip to Portofino, where you can spot expensive yachts and will not see selfie sticks but glasses of champagne and caviar.
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