Naples: an injection of urban energy

I've been in Naples for a few days now. Days that I have to let it sink in. What an incredible city this is. As soon as I leave the baroque, somewhat dilapidated but very charming apartment, I enter a chaotic, noisy and energetic world where almost everything screams for attention at the same time. Merchants singing cheerfully, Neapolitans calling into their mobile phones, scooters roaring and cars honking.

In the apartment you don't get much from all the hustle and bustle on the street. Only the wailing sirens of ambulances making a futile attempt to squeeze through the impossible traffic can be caught in here. The greater is the contrast that presents itself as soon as I open the door good morning wished and exit the great gate, right in the heart of Naples. A shot of pure urban energy.

I have a Lonely Planet and a Capitol Travel Guide of Naples. Both are packed with ideas to get through the day. There is so much to do that I don't know where to start. So on my second full day in Naples, I'm the first ufficio turistiche walked in. Three men behind the counter attacked me to provide me with the necessary information. Armed with new ideas, a handy map of Naples and the tourist magazine Qui NaplesI stepped outside again.

On the advice of the helpful tourist information, I dived into the excavations under the San Lorenzo Maggiore. A few meters below this church, an authentic Roman road has been uncovered, with various shops on it. There was a bakery (complete with oven), a launderette (with basins), wine shops and even an indoor 'shopping center' of seven contiguous shops with shelves and counters.

Take a break in this underground Roman shopping center.

After this underground adventure I continued on the Via dei Tribunali, which the Romans de decumanus major called. This is one of the three straight roads that cross the old town (I live on the inferior decumanus, the lowest of the three roads). Along the way you can enjoy the beautiful, somewhat expired baroque style, in which most of the houses are built. It looks like one big open air museum.

The Duomo of Naples is a particularly richly decorated Gothic church, with many statues, golden crosses and a crypt containing the bones of San Gennaro, the patron saint of the city.

Two tubes behind the altar contain the best man's blood and halfway through town runs out in May, September and December to watch it liquefy. If this miracle does not happen, Naples will be struck by great calamity, according to tradition. The last two times that this miracle failed to materialize, Naples was hit by an eruption of Vesuvius (1944) and an earthquake (1980).

The Duomo of Napoli, dedicated to the patron saint of the city: San Gennaro.

I also visit the same day directional center, a neighborhood after the Japanese example with cold, futuristic government buildings, which forms a bizarre contrast with the atmospheric city center.

Strange skyscrapers in the administrative center of Naples.

In the evening I do another round along the fascist architecture from the 20s and 30s. On the authority of dictator Benito Mussolini, grotesque buildings arose around Piazza Matteotti and Via Toledo, mixing a rational style with influences from Italy's rich history.

In his 20-year reign, Mussolini made sure to leave his mark on the city of Naples, which he had big plans for. For example, the harbor was converted so that the largest cruise ships in the world could dock here, which is still happening today. After all, it was also here in the harbor where the fascist dictator convinced Hitler to become allies through a spectacular show by means of a spectacular show.

The program *post office building* is a good example of the rational architectural style from the fascist period. A grim building of considerable dimensions. The black pillars refer to the black bands on the sleeves of the party members.

On Wednesday I wanted to take it easy a bit, because I was still quite tired from the previous day. After visiting my school's location, I went to the famous Pignasecca market. Like a real one local I bargained for the present for Anneloes.

Then I took the funicular up the hill. Here lies Vomero, a leafy neighborhood that seems far away from the hectic downtown. From Castel St. Elmo you have a magnificent view over the Bay of Naples, with the looming shadow of Vesuvius in the background.

A fascinating view over a gigantic city. In the background the sleeping 'Vesuvio'.

From St. Elmo you can take the *Spaccanapoli* see well. On the background *Centro Direzionale*. My apartment building can be seen somewhere at the top of the street.

With a pizza slice and a book I positioned myself on a bench in Villa Floridiana, a large city park in the neighbourhood. After all, the metro took me back to piazza Dante, a stone's throw from where I was staying.

Last night it stormed in Naples and today it also rained quite hard. A beautiful day to visit it National Archaeological Museum. This museum is one of the most important archaeological sites in the world.

And that's because they have the most spectacular pieces from Pompeii and Herculaneum on display here. Items through which we now know so much about Roman civilization from the 1^th century. It is also special Gabinetto Segreto, an overview of well-preserved, antique erotic works of art from the doomed cities.

One of the 'dishes' from the menu of a Roman brothel.

I just ate a delicious pizza Napoli (with buffalo mozzarella, sausages and fries) at a tiny restaurant in the Spanish Quarter. I had the most expensive pizza on the menu and yet I was ready for 8 euros including a beer and a coffee. This way you can eat out again, here in Naples!

To be continued.

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