Past the locations of the TV series Montalbano in Sicily

Make This is Italy your Google favorite

The Italian detective series Montalbano has been on Netflix for years. Salvo Montalbano is a commissioner living in the fictional town of Vigàta, Sicily. He is a great fan of Sicilian cuisine and his motto is that you do not talk while eating. He has special research methods and is often helped by his Swedish girlfriend Ingrid, who knows about the existence of his fiancée Livia, but not the other way around.

Commissioner Montalbano is played by Italian actor Luca Zingaretti. The series is based on the books by the Sicilian writer Andrea Camilleri who died in 2019. A number of his books have also been translated into Dutch. Unfortunately they are only available second hand.

In the late 90s, the books were adapted into films. So you can see the episodes on Netflix, buy DVDs or stream via other platforms.

Naturally, the local bookstores stock books about Montalbano

The series was shot mainly in southeastern Sicily. Much was destroyed in this area during the earthquake of 1693. After that, cities and villages were quickly built up in Baroque style. This area is also called 'baroque Sicily' and if you are a fan of this architectural style, this part of the island is highly recommended.

The town of Vigàta does not exist in real life. Punta Secca, Scicli and Ragusa are often the setting in the series. Below is a description of these places. Even if you are not a Montalbano fan, it is definitely worth going to Scicli and Ragusa!

Punta Secca

Montalbano beach house is located in Punta Secca, a hamlet by the sea. He often eats outside on the veranda or you can see him swimming in the sea.

There is a beautiful sandy beach here with some rocks and a turquoise sea, in short, ideal for a day at the beach. You cannot visit Montalbano's house, but it is possible to spend the night there! For more information see: www.lacasadimontalbano.com.

There is also a small fishing port with a large lighthouse of 34 meters high. Here you will also find Enzo a Mare (Lungomare Amerigo Vespucci, only open from May to September), Montalbano's favorite lunch spot.

scicli

Scicli has existed for a long time, the 'Siculi' people are said to have founded the first settlement here, long before the Greeks arrived. Scicli was also destroyed during the great earthquake in 1693 and was subsequently rebuilt in Baroque style. Today the town has approximately 27.000 inhabitants and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Start your walk through Scicli at Piazza Italia, the largest square in the city. In the series, Piazza Italia is filmed when Montalbano usually walks out of the police station in a hurry. On Piazza Italia are the Palazzo Fava with beautifully decorated balconies, the Chiesa San Bartolomeo and the Chiesa Madre/San Ignazio.

Piazza Italia with a view of the San Matteo church on the rocky hill

If you look up, you will see the church of San Matteo on top of the rocks. San Matteo is built on the foundations of an old church that was destroyed by the earthquake. Over the centuries, San Matteo fell into disrepair, but the church was restored in the 90s.

Then walk onto Via Nazionale, turn right onto Via Duca d'Aosta and admire the Palazzo Beneventano with its beautiful facade. Continue walking, you will return to Via Nazionale and turn left at Via Francesco Mormino Penna.

You will see it on your right municipality (town hall) which is the police station in the series. This can be visited and here you will see not only the office of Montalbano, Catarella and Mimi Augello (especially the last room is nice), but also the office of the Questore di Montelusa (chief commissioner of Montelusa, Montalbano's boss). In reality, this office is much smaller than in the series. Upon entry you can buy a ticket for this building, the Palazzo Spadaro and the Santa Teresa d'Avila church, both also very worth seeing.

A little further on is the old Farmacia Cartia (pharmacy) which you can also visit, the Palazzo Spadaro, the former home of a wealthy family from Modena, the Chiesa Santa Teresa d'Avila, the Chiesa San Michele and the Palazzo Bonelli-Patané. You often see all these buildings in the series.

Ragusa

Besides Punta Secca and Scicli, many scenes were also shot in Ragusa. At the beginning of each episode you usually see a high bridge over a deep abyss, that bridge is in Modica, but the city overview is that of Ragusa.

Ragusa has approximately 73.500 inhabitants. It consists of 2 parts separated by a ravine: Ragusa Superiore, the upper town located on a hill and Ibla, the lower town. After the devastating earthquake, there was disagreement about where the city should be rebuilt. This created 2 cities, one with a modern rectangular street plan (Ragusa Superiore) and the other with small winding streets (Ibla). It was not until 1926 that Ragusa became one city again.

For a nice view of Ibla, start in the upper town and walk down via the Santa Maria delle Scale. Another option is to park at the bottom of Ibla, near a red house that you also see in the Montalbano series.

Walk up through the winding streets in Ibla to reach the Duomo San Giorgio. This church was designed by Rosario Gaglierli who designed more baroque churches and buildings in this part of Sicily. The cathedral towers high above the Piazza del Duomo. A wide staircase with a cast-iron railing leads to the cathedral.

Both the cathedral and the Piazza del Duomo appear in the series. The square also has a bar where Montalbano regularly drinks coffee with Pasquale, the son of Adelina, his housekeeper.

This is where Montalbano likes to drink his espresso

The Circolo di Conversazione at the beginning of the Corso XXV Aprile is also a place that Montalbano visits. The rich used to come here to play cards, smoke and read the newspaper. The coroner in the series, Doctor Pasquano, is often found here and, to his dismay, Montalbano regularly interrupts to ask for details about an autopsy.

In a side street of the Corso XXV Aprile, the Vico Domenico Morelli, you will find the Trattoria A' Rusticana, in the series this is the Trattoria San Calogero where Montalbano likes to eat.

Return to Corso XXV Aprile and walk to the church of San Giuseppe, this church resembles the church of San Domenico in Noto (same architect). Continue the Corso and if you walk all the way to the end you will reach the Giardini Ibla, a beautiful garden that you can also spot in the series.

Then walk back to Ragusa Superiore and visit the Duomo San Giovanni. You can climb the bell tower (165 steps), from where you have a beautiful view of Ibla.

Other locations that appear in the series are in Modica (the cathedral), Marzamemi, the castle of Donnafugata, the ruins of Fornace Penna (La Mannara in the series) and even the Piazza del Duomo in Siracusa.

Spend the night at Punta Secca, Scicli and Ragusa

You can do Punta Secca, Scicli and Ragusa as a day trip with your own transport, but it is more relaxing to take 2 or 3 days and spend the night, for example in Montalbano's house in Punta Secca.