Column: back in Provesano

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On the way back from the summer holidays in the Alps my wife and I passed by Provesano di San Giorgio della Richinvelda. A flowery name for a boring hamlet of barely 400 inhabitants in the countryside of Friuli. Nevertheless, Provesano made it to all Dutch media once. that was in July 2002, when Pim Fortuyn was buried here. I was then a reporter in Provesano for more than a week and of course I couldn't resist taking another look sixteen years later.

Hilarious Situations

In addition, memories quickly arose of the sometimes sad but often hilarious situations that took place on the eve of the interment. For example, the warden of the municipal cemetery initially did not issue the necessary permit, because the tomb would not close properly.

It had to be explained time and again to Italian journalists and interested parties that in the Netherlands right-wing and gay can go together.

Folk artist Vanessa wanted to sing at mass for the murdered politician, but was brutally refused by Don Piergiorgio, the village pastor. Bernard de Vries, former foreman of Provo in Amsterdam, who ended up in Udine as the owner of a lamp shop, came to pay tribute to Fortuyn as the 'new Provo'.

Piazza Risorta is all of Provesano - a little church, the bar, a single shop and on the right Fortuyn's house — Piazza Risorta is all of Provesano – a little church, the bar, a single shop and on the right Fortuyn's house (source: Google Maps)

Eddie the bartender

A local publisher wanted to profit from advertising by dedicating a conference to the politician Fortuyn and the director Pasolini, who is buried a few miles away in Casarsa. Eddy, the manager of the café opposite Fortuyn's house in Provesano, was the most interviewed bartender in Italy and the surrounding area for several days.

Bar Da Eddy in the center of Provesano — Bar da Eddy in the center of Provesano

And it had to be explained time and again to Italian journalists and interested parties that in the Netherlands right-wing and gay can go together.

Provesano and surroundings

In between the companies it was worth exploring the nearby area as well. This brought us to the medieval town of Spilimbergo, which is still the center of the traditional terrazzo and mosaic industry, and where we reveled in Friulan specialties in the Afro's trattoria.

Of course also in San Daniele, where they make the delicious raw ham of the same name and that just as much at first sight prosciutteria counts as residents. In Maniago you can also look forward to the products of the traditional knife production. And then there's Rauscedo, a small town that is nevertheless essential for Italian viticulture. Here they grow the rootstocks of the vines from all over the country.

Closed shutters

Provesano's town square, Piazza Risorta, looks sleepy as usual on a warm Sunday afternoon. At number 2, the shutters of Fortuyn's house, named Rocca Jacoba after his mother, are closed. It should have become a museum once, but it never happened.

Opposite, in Eddy's bar, who has since passed away, his Brazilian widow Vilma likes to inform me about the latest developments over a glass of tai, the local white wine. The property has long been owned by a Dutch banker, who uses it as a holiday home and drops by every now and then, she says.

Rocca Jacoba, named after Pim Fortuyn's mother

But Dutch people still come to photograph the house, to see the table next to the entrance to the café where Fortuyn used to read and write, and to visit his grave.

The grave of Fortuyn

We do the latter too, and it is a sad experience. The monumental monument, built in gleaming white Carrara marble – the Italian press used the word at the time pharaonico – tomb with the proud family coat of arms does detonate a bit on this provincial graveyard.

And many visitors don't seem to come by anymore, much less than in 2007 when I was also here and flowers, notes and other expressions of affection could still be found in front of the grave.

Now there are some dried out roses, sun-colored plastic bouquets, a rain-soaked photo and a plaster Madonna — Dried out roses, sun-colored plastic bouquets, a rained-out photo and a plaster Madonna

Now there are some dried out roses, sun-discolored plastic bouquets, a rain-soaked photo and a plaster Madonna. The saying is carved in the marble Loquendi Libertatem Custodiamus: let's watch over the freedom of the word.

Loquendi Libertatem Custodiamus: let's watch over the freedom of the word

Sure enough, but the scene also brings to mind another Latin proverb: Sic transit glory mundi.

Provesano, Fortuyn's house and cemetery on video footage:

Living in Provesano?

If you have now become enthusiastic about Provesano and are considering buying a cottage yourself, we have another tip for you. Currently this house on Via Giuseppe Garibaldi number 1 for sale for an asking price of € 225.000. With a view of the central square and the former house of Pim Fortuyn. You can also purchase one apartment in the building for just €79.000.