Jane Verdonk
Between Ischia and Ponza off the coast of Lazio, lies the small island of Ventotene. The island is about 3 km long and 800 meters wide and looks a bit like a raft in the middle of the sea. It is of volcanic origin and about 700 people live there. Ventotene belongs to the Pontine Islands, as well as the more famous Ponza, which is loved by the Roman jet set.
Island history
Ventotene was already known to the Greeks, who called the island Pandataria ('spreader of good'). However, the Greeks never lived on the island because it was not easy to land and because there were no fresh water sources.
The Romans changed this. They dug out a harbor in tuff and built an ingenious water system in which rainwater was collected and stored in large underground water basins.
Emperor Augustus had a large summer palace built on the north side of the island, which later served as a place of exile. For example, he sent his daughter Giulia here after she was found guilty of adultery. Her daughter Vipsania Agrippina also lived here in exile. Now only a few ruins remain of this palace.
After the Roman era, the island remained largely uninhabited until it was in the 18e century became the property of the Bourbon kingdom. Farmers from Campania tried to grow crops here, which was difficult because of the strong winds. In the Bourbon period, a Panopticon prison was built on the small island next to Ventotene, Santo Stefano. A kind of Alcatraz; escape was virtually impossible.
Today the island is a paradisiacal tourist attraction for those who are looking for peace, want to eat good food, walk and enjoy the sea.
place of exile
In the time of it fascism political opponents were exiled to Santo Stefano. Sandro Pertini, President of Italy from 1978-1985 was imprisoned here.
The Panopticon prison was expanded with a barracks, an infirmary and a separate quarters for women. In its heyday there were as many as 350 police officers and carabinieri who kept an eye on the prisoners and the island.
Most of the prisoners were communists, followed by anarchists and socialists. Albanians, Yugoslavs, Croats and Slovenes were also imprisoned here.
Besides Sandro Pertini, Altiero Spinelli and Ernesto Rossi were also here. This duo wrote it Ventotene Manifesto a document on the future of Europe after World War II. They envisioned a federation of European states, like the United States.
The prisoners did not have much freedom. You were allowed to walk with one other person, but only in the indicated places. You were allowed to write one letter of 24 lines per week and of course this letter was subject to censorship. You were also not allowed to have contact with other islanders, not to listen to the radio and so on.
The film is on Netflix A new world which is about the life of Altiero Spinelli, with beautiful images of the island.
Tips to explore Ventotene
What can you do on Ventotene? Here are some tips to make your stay as pleasant as possible.
Ventotene village
At the harbor is the only village of the island with small streets, tourist shops and a number of restaurants and hotels. On the square you will find a good bookshop that organizes literary festivals in the summer.
Archaeological Museum
There is a small archaeological museum (Piazza Castello 1), with objects from the time of Emperor Augustus. There are also some shipwrecks on display.
To dive
Around Ventotene there are several beautiful dive sites. Such as Punta Eolo, famous for the remains of Villa Giulia. You can also see a wreck of an old steamship that sank in 1943.
Another beautiful dive spot is Punta Pascone because of the Secca dell'Archetto, a kind of underwater tunnel where you can admire anemones and sea sponges.
The diving schools can be found in the old harbor (Porto Romano). If you don't want to dive, but prefer to take a boat trip, that is also possible. In the old port, boat trips are offered by Francesco.
Santo Stefano
The Panopticon prison is located on this small island. It can only be visited with an organized tour.
Panopticon comes from the Greek and means 'all-seeing'. It is an architectural term. Buildings designed according to this principle are circular. The domed prisons in Haarlem, Breda and Arnhem are an example of this architectural style. This makes it easier to keep an eye on the prisoners and also gives the prisoners the feeling that they are being watched all the time.
The prison dates from 1795. The cells were built in such a way that you could only see a small piece of the sky and not the sea. In its heyday, as many as 900 people were imprisoned here. The prison became famous for the many anti-fascists who were imprisoned here.
The beach
There are several sandy beaches on Ventotene, but also rocky beaches. Well-known beaches are:
Cala Navea overlooking the islet of Santo Stefano. This is the most famous beach on the island, you can rent a beach bed and an umbrella, and there are also restaurants.
Cala Rossano on the other side of the new harbor is a smaller beach with restaurants and even a sailing school. You can also rent canoes and SUPs here.
to the lighthouse at the lighthouse. From here you can also get to the sea. You will find dark rocks here, no sandy beach, but there are beach beds for rent.
Festa Patronale di Santa Candida
Every year in September, the feast of Santa Candida, the patron saint of Ventotene, is held. For the islanders, but also for the tourists, the tourist season on the island does not end in August, but only in September. If you still have a holiday on this island in September, it is nice to experience this.
The celebrations begin on September 10 and end on September 20 with a procession through the streets of the island. There are fireworks, music and hot air balloons.
Restaurants
A number of restaurants have a nice sea view, such as Le Terrazze di Mimi en Il Giardino. On Ventotene you mainly eat fish. The dish is loved paccheri allo scorfano (large tubular pasta with scorpion fish).
How do you get there?
There is a ferry service from Formia (via Rome, from Naples Formia is about 2 hours away) with at least 2 connections daily, the regular ferry takes about 2 hours, the hydrofoil about 1 hour (info: www.laziomar.com).
From the beginning of June to mid-September there is also a ferry service from Naples, but only on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, for more information see: www.snav.it.
Ventotene is a small island. You can easily move here on foot. And otherwise there are always taxis available or you can rent a bike.
Overnight on Ventotene
Are you having a good night's sleep? That is also possible with Ventotene.
A nice hotel Villa Julia overlooking the beach Cala Nave and Santo Stefano. Of course you pay for that.
Which is less pricey, for example Isolabella Hotel. Via Booking.com you have the choice of such 20 beautiful hotels and apartments on the island.
You can also book a number of beautiful rooms and apartments via Airbnb.
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