Street art in Dozza: the 7 most beautiful murals

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A village full of street art. That's Dozza in Emilia Romagna and Lombardy. This collection of orange, red, yellow and narrow-street houses now has more than 200 murals created by local and international artists. From abstract to concrete and from black and white to color explosions: each fresco is unique and makes Dozza the domain of street artists...

Through the wet streets of Imola

"Where shall I drop you off?" asks the taxi driver without taking his eyes off the wet streets of Imola. The rain taps on the roof and drowns out the – quite loud – Italian radio. The driver laughs when we don't respond to his question. 'You're looking for a dry place in Dozza? Forget it'. We laugh along, but hope that the village of Dozza – one of 'the most beautiful castles in Italy' – worth a visit even in rainy weather.

Our driver sees no problem and cheerfully whistles along with the music on the radio. The road rises and narrows. The Italian countryside emerges among the green trees: a patchwork of golden cornfields, brown plowed earth and meadows, spread over the endless hills. The taxi brakes and suddenly we are under the thick walls of a huge fortress with battlements and round towers: Dozza.

1. Welcome to the clouds

When we get out, it looks like we've been in a time machine instead of an Alfa Romeo. A cobblestone path leads up the ivy-covered walls of the 13th-century castle of La Rocca. Birds are chirping and farmers are hoeing the ground in the fields in the distance. The gray clouds have disappeared and the sun is shining as we enter Dozza. There we encounter other clouds: fluffy white ones, painted on the orange wall of a house…

Since 1965, Dozza – located between Bologna and Imola – namely once every two years the domain of street artists during the Biennale del Muro Dipinto. This seven day festival with workshops, lectures and drinks, it is completely devoted to street art.

With each edition, a number of artists paint the ancient walls of Dozza with new frescoes. Over the past 50 years, the town with its few thousand inhabitants has grown into a colorful open-air gallery with more than two hundred frescoes.

2. The Greedy Griffin

The white and blue clouds of the mural that welcomes us gives a dreamy feeling. So is the little lonely cyclist and the two men looking longingly at him from above. A nostalgic feeling comes over us when we read the title: 'As yesterday'.

We round the bend and come face to face with the two round towers of La Rocca and the green belt that resembles a moat. Visitors walk in and out over the narrow wooden walkway.

Although tomorrow the 27^th edition of the mural festival begins – and Dozza gets a few more frescoes – it's quiet in the small square. There we meet the Griffin: the soft pink wall of the stairs leading to a private house is painted with a lion with the head of a bird of prey. The magical animal greedily drinks from a stream of water. The Italian flag is flying on the neighboring house: also a fresco.

3. The frescoes of La Rocca

Before diving into the small streets of Dozza, we walk over the wooden footbridge to the castle to which Dozza owes its existence. At the entrance, museum employee Laura – wavy black hair and a face full of freckles – tells us about the history of the castle. It was built in the 13^de century, but has been regularly destroyed, rebuilt and expanded in the centuries since. Several noble families have lived here over the years. You will meet them, Laura winks.

When we wander through the spacious rooms with colored tapestries, high windows and antique furniture, we indeed come across the Sforza, Malvezzi and Campeggi family everywhere: in paintings, in stories and even their wardrobes are still there.

This is where the Sforza, Malvezzi and Campeggi . family lived

These noble families knew what lies behind the many hidden doors and stairs. In the courtyard, full of arches and vaulted ceilings, we once again find ourselves in a creative world: frescoes by former inhabitants adorn the walls and artefacts are everywhere.

4. Time flies

Between a handful of visitors we climb to the top of the towers. The dark red roofs of Dozza – surrounded by a sea of green hills – stretch below us. We explore the tour so as not to miss a view. Dreamily we look at the red farms between the vineyards. No wonder that Dozza inspires artists and many continue to live there. Pigeons coo and the wind blows: the bustle of the 21^th century is just as far away.

After a short look - because closed - at the famous wine bar Enoteca Regional Emilia Romagna in the cellar of the castle, we wave to Laura. Via the Via the Amicis and the Street of Peace – even the state names are beautiful – we walk to the 'main street' of Dozza: a narrow street of 400 meters long.

Still, walking through Dozza takes time: frescoes with various colours, shapes and themes hang everywhere. Appropriate is the dark painting with a white carpet that floats through the room: Time flies.

5. An explosion of pink

In addition to a good dose of creativity, Dozza residents also have green fingers: there are containers with colored flowers and terracotta pots with green plants that match the dark green and brown shutters on the windows. One of the most striking murals is the pink cloud surrounding a wooden gate. An elegant woman – subtly naked – leans calmly against that gate and watches who is walking down her street. Somewhere in the explosion of pink colors house number 41 can just be seen.

It reminds visitors that Dozza is not just an open-air museum full of paintings: people live there too. Like Rina, who owns a small boutique – Le Robe di Rina – runs under the vaulted ceilings of the colonnade in the heart of Dozza. Her blond curls and cheerful smile invite you to look at the dresses, hats and jewelry. Outside, wooden cooking utensils are displayed on pallets and orange crates. 'For home in the kitchen' she laughs. 'Dozza's best kitchen is there'.

6. Have lunch next to San Giorgio

Rina points to the graceful sign of Cane restaurant. In the colonnade below is a long table full of empty wine glasses. Chattering—and slightly tipsy—women of all ages lean contentedly against the red plaster of the colonnade. We do feel at home here. On the other side of the restaurant that has been here since 1928 (!), there is a terrace with a panoramic view. On the balcony are countless boxes full of pink petunias that contrast sharply with the white tablecloths.

Very little of the tablecloth is visible anymore: it is buried under glasses of water, wine, grissini – Italian breadsticks – and bruschetta. The plates of pasta with creamy asparagus sauce and saffron hardly match. The restaurant is also a hotel and although we would like to try the beds, we say goodbye to the waiters. Many frescoes are still waiting. Like the Venetian island of San Giorgio on the wall next to the town hall. The blue water of the lagoon splashes off the orange walls.

Statues and frescoes in front of the town hall

The Town Hall with a fresco of the Venetian island of San Giorgio

7. Flap ears up to the balcony

The bright jingling of the bells of Dozza's church – which is officially Santa Maria Asunta in Piscina hot – tempts us to push open the heavy wooden door opposite the town hall. Immediately we are in the small church with creamy white walls hung full of religious frescoes. The walls and ceiling are decorated with curls and other decorations in the same creamy white color. Even the heavy wooden pews appear less dark as a result. Still, we long for some more color..

For that we have to be at the adjacent gate. The stone arch over the road has a clock on both sides, but especially the colors on the outside catch the eye: bright blue sky, a colored rainbow and green grass.

The building next door is decorated with a huge fresco of a lithe man whose floppy ears are so big they almost don't fit on the building. He harvests amazement and admiration, which applies to the whole of Dozza: wall paintings give color to history. And the number of works of art is still growing..