Aart Heering
The town of Tolentino is strategically located between the Adriatic coast and the lovely hilly landscape of the Marche region, dotted with medieval villages.Le Marche). But it is also located in the province of Macerata, which has traditionally been a center of small (mostly family-owned) businesses that manufacture footwear, bags and other accessories and whose craftsmanship improves the quality of the Made in Italybrand guarantee.
A poorly kept secret of the Italian luxury industry is that fashion houses such as Gucci, Versace, and Fendi do not always make their own wares, but also outsource the artisanal production to subcontractors such as Macerata's.
We are just not allowed to talk about this, so it is contractually stipulated that the suppliers are not allowed to disclose who they work for. (That's why you don't get to see the photos of glorious logos I made in De Marken.)
In this way, the big names take the credit (and the poet), and the actual makers remain anonymous.
Crafted Society
An exception is the Amsterdam Crafted Society, which markets Italian luxury goods, but in doing so does announce the names of its suppliers in De Marken.
After all, according to founders Martin Johnston and Lise Bonnet, it is only fair that they share in the brand awareness. That is why in the handmade moccasins that this company offers, in addition to its own logo, you can also see that of the makers, the company Bluestar in the village of Montegranaro.
During a company visit last week, we were shown how to assemble such a luxurious shoe. A meticulous job, which takes the necessary time. So that you understand why such truly handmade products are not cheap either.
Shoemakers
Further on, at the Impresa Familiare Grassetti in Corridonia, director Maio Grassetti still honors the traditional shoemaking company. (He mainly employs young immigrants, who he says learn quickly and do an excellent job.) And at ALES Pelletterie in Tolentino, leather bags, purses and purses are still made by hand.
In the evening, Crafted Society organized a feast for its suppliers with music in the 14ecentury (but thoroughly restored) Castello della Rancia, just outside Tolentino.
A nice boost for these people, who were hit by the same heavy earthquake 5 years ago, which destroyed the town of Amatrice on the other side of the Apennines.
Many commercial buildings then collapsed and production fell to a historical minimum. Just when the worst was over, the Covid crisis came over again.
But even now these small entrepreneurs are recovering, thanks to their unique knowledge and experience, which has been a good reason for many clients to keep production in Italy and not to move to low-wage countries.
Treaty of Tolentino
Tolentino itself, known to historians for the Treaty of Tolentino, with which Napoleon and the Pope made peace in 1797, has the usual attractions of a central Italian provincial town. A solid city wall with ditto strongholds, narrow medieval streets, a modest cathedral, a neoclassical theater and a lively central square.
San Nicola
By far the most beautiful monument is the Basilica of San Nicole da Tolentino, dedicated to an indigenous saint, so not to be confused with the San Nicola from whom our Saint Nicholas is derived. (When I made that mistake to the pastor, he reacted somewhat disgruntled.)
The basilica, to which between 13e and the 17e century has been regularly cultivated and renovated, is especially worthwhile because of the Capellone San Nicolas with 14ecentury frescoes depicting the miracles of the town saint, and the adjacent courtyard with cloister.
Not everything is accessible by the way, because part of the church is still being restored after the earthquake of 2016.
Scaffolding
By the way, that is what is most striking in Tolentino: the enormous number of houses and monuments that are still under construction. But at the same time you can see from the many brightly painted buildings and expertly reinforced walls that at least so much has already been restored.
Restoration after an earthquake is simply a difficult and slow undertaking. If an entire street has been hit, you only have to refurbish the houses one by one, so that the next house leans against an already reinforced wall.
So it takes a long time, but there's music in it, in Tolentino. That makes it Work in progress fascinating to watch, but hopefully that will be over in another 5 years.
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